On Friday I went on a data collection trip to the northern region. We had meetings in Kolasin (pronounced koh-lash-in) and Berane (be-rahn-neh). The road that heads north is not the best, and I spent a lot of time bouncing around in the back of the Jeep (my colleague gets more carsick than I do, so I gave up the front). Our driver, like most Montenegrin drivers who have a car that can accelerate fairly quickly, likes to pass any car that isn’t going as fast as him… so I also spent a lot of time hanging on and hoping that he wouldn’t do anything too crazy. He never passes on curves or when he can’t see in front of the car he wants to pass, so I guess I am lucky??
The northern region is economically depressed. Young people have become very apathetic and wish for only one thing—to leave. The older generation either cannot or will not do anything about the situation. They are products of a communist society that discouraged taking initiative and questioning authority. This only serves to aggregate the situation.

One possible solution is the development of the tourist sector. With mountains, rivers, canyons, and lakes, not to mention a stunning countryside, the north of Montenegro has a lot of potential. Unfortunately, the infrastructure is seriously lacking and while the government’s tourism ministry has a gorgeous commercial (its shown on CNN in Europe and Africa, and possibly elsewhere), it is a mystery where tourists (excepting backpackers) would stay, how they would get there, and what they would do (while I am sure you can go rafting down the river, you need someone who speaks the language to organize it for you). Eating would only be slightly easier, but there aren’t a lot of options.

Despite all of these problems, at least one foriegner investor has put forth a lot of money to completely renovate an old hotel in Kolasin. This past summer, they unveiled the new hotel and resort, and on Friday we visited the new hotel. And it is gorgeous. As nice as any mountain resort I have ever seen in Western Europe or the United States. Protected by security guards, and staffed by people of many nationalities, Hotel Bianca has everything that you would want for a weekend mountain getaway—spa, indoor pool, comfortable couches, fireplaces, restaurants, cafes, and a nightclub. The price? Ranging from 109-990 euros per night. But I still don’t know how the people will get there…